22 April 2009

All That Jazz

The El (O'Hare)
I have to confess, even though the thought of finally going to Chicago excited me, I had no idea what it was all about. Early Edition, Alinea, that musical-- fragmented impressions picked up from blogland, film, and television. When I got an invitation to interview there, I scheduled my flight so that I'd get a few more days to explore, and carefully searched for a hotel that would be priced reasonably enough to allow me that. Thankfully, there was Holiday Inn (you're great, Mariott, but too rich for my blood). I was lucky in a way to get my reservation, as it was fully booked just the night before because The Killers played nearby. Another good thing about Holiday Inn was that I only needed one ride on The El directly from O'Hare (thank you, 3-Day Pass), although I had to lug my 35-pound suitcase up 4 flights of stairs at the Clinton-Blue station.
Chicago Skyline
I'm glad I got this chance, as it's just one of those cities that rewards those who really endeavor to scratch beneath the surface. I'm not quite sure if I'm one of those people, but I know what (and who) I wanted to see, and that's enough for me, at least till I get my first big paycheck and that will open a few more doors for me (ahemAlineaahem). But as a simple traveler, I still managed to enjoy myself a lot.
Shopping District, Chicago
And I'm not talking about the shopping. Sure, the biggest names in retail are here, and that Mile is truly Magnificent, but I guess it'll be a while before I'm able to afford the type of clothes they have there.
Greenview Avenue, Chicago
It was a lot of fun navigating the subway system and the astonishingly organized grid city planning, but I wish I'd bought a good bus map, because it was a pain having to consult my laptop whenever I needed a bus route (hmm, so that's what these newfangled phones are for). Some things I wanted to do-- like go to a Jazz club, just because-- I had to postpone, but I'm not disappointed. Leave some for next time! The beautiful neighborhood above is Greenview Avenue, near Vanille Patisserie.
Vanille Facade
Now, I haven't nearly been in enough Patisseries in my life (believe it or not), but I don't think I'd be too far off in declaring Vanille as one of America's best Patisseries. There was absolutely no question I had to visit this before I left. If I had more time, I'm pretty sure I would have come back!
Vanille Display
Vanille Display 2
The display is leaning a little too heavily on the non-fruit choices (chocolate, vanilla, caramel, nuts-- okay, technically nuts are fruits), but I still had difficulty deciding what I wanted!
Sicilia from Vanille
Tarte Vanille at Vanille
Sooo... I got two. Yeah. Hello, welcome to my blog if this is your first time. Anyway, I got the Sicilia, which is a pistachio mousse, biscuit, and raspberries. I thought the sphere on top was some candied fruit, but it turns out it was raspberry mousse coated in raspberry gelée! Awesome. The second is a Tarte Vanille, which is probably inspired by Pierre Hermé's creation.
Giordano's Interior
Deep Dish Pizza at Giordano's
The first lunch I had in Chicago was at Giordano's. A friend of mine had already warned me about the greasiness and general grossness of deep-dish pizzas, I felt it was something I had to eat. So I went with what was generally regarded as the best among the accessible pizza franchises in Chicago. I was pleasantly surprised as Anthony Bourdain was: the trick is to not expect it to be anything like a pizza, just let it be its own thing. So imagine it's a lasagna in a tart shell or something (okay, that not letting it be its own thing, sorry). BUT I did get a vegetarian one to avoid potential oil-slicks.
Avec interior
Frog legs at Avec
My first dinner in Chicago was in Avec, a bistro and bar. The entrance was near-invisible so there was this evil waitress inside practically screaming at me to enter from the side. Felt like an idiot, but the bartender was nice and said nearly everyone gets that wrong the first time. It attracted an easygoing, swanky crowd and I felt a little out of place with my water! I ordered the Frisée salad with pan-fried cuisses de grenouille, crispy fennel, prosciutto and paprika aioli. It was my first taste of frog's legs-- I had been saving my first taste for a very good restaurant, and these didn't disappoint. The taste was... interesting (cross between chicken and fish, how Darwinian), but it's the texture I wasn't comfortable with. Too slippery (!). The rest of the salad was really good.
Atwood Cafe
I met up with the gorgeous Ginny of Just Get Floury, who didn't recommend eating the very plain hot dogs of Chicago, so we ended up at Atwood Cafe, which is located at the first floor of Hotel Burnham. We had a very light lunch of beef and vegetable soup, and Ginny had the... something in cherry something. Ha ha ha. I had a great time; it was just a pity Ginny had to study! (Sorry I couldn't go to your LOST premiere party too!)
More Cupcakes LLC
This is the display at More Cupcakes, which looked good but I denied myself the indulgence as self-flagellation for bombing at my interview. I did, however, explain to two shoppers what Valrhona was.
Le Colonial Interior, Chicago
Goi Bun So at Le Colonial
This was my last dinner in Chicago, Le Colonial. It's critically acclaimed, but unfortunately due to my sinking mood, my appetite was waning. At least it allowed me to save money-- on a salad so big I couldn't even finish it. It was a Goi Bun So-- scallops with garlic fried noodles and lime vinaigrette. Yum, yum, and yum.
Oil pastels, Blick
These are oil pastels from Blick, which I managed to photograph before one of the employees nearly threw me out. I can't believe Blick Art Materials has a bouncer. Anyway, I hope you enjoyed my little tour (sorry there aren't any tourist-y things, heh). And Chicago? I'll be back. I promise.

38 comments:

Ginny said...

Yea for your Chicago post! you are so sweet... How'd you know that I love being called gorgeous? hehe! :) So, I've decided that in order to celebrate being done with exams in 3 weeks... I'm going take a special trip to Vannile. It was awesome to finally meet you in person. I had a wonderful time! My meal was duck raviolis with a cherry reduction... next time, I believe we need to hit up a jazz club and maybe another patisserie together! :)

Em Dy said...

I've never been to Chicago so thanks for this tour! Looking at the desserts, I thought wow, they're pretty liberal about photography there then I saw what happened at Blick. Some good things never last?

Pinay MegaMom said...

You've captured many of the things I love about Chicago - my 2nd home (with the exception of that shot with the snow). I left part of my heart there you know. :-)
I must confess that I blew a lot of my measly income as a peds resident on dining out.

Bridget said...

I really love Chicago. I've eaten at Giordano's. Fortunately, I love grease. :) Although I agree that it's best to think of deep-dish pizza as something other than pizza.

I love that you ordered 2 pastries at Vanille. Everything there looks so amazing, how could you possibly choose just one? I wonder if they were low on fruit desserts because it was winter and there wasn't much in season?

You and I have different methods of dealing with disappointment - I'm pretty sure I wouldn't been all about the cupcakes if I was feeling low.

On a different note, I have banana date tea cake in the oven right now. It's my first recipe from Tartine, and it smells amazing.

Elyse said...

Wow! Everything looks great. I've never been to Chicago, but now I really want to go. Vanille looks absolutely incredible. I mean, my mouth is watering just looking at the pastry pics. And that pizza...mmm, to die for. So glad you're having a great time!

Elra said...

Beautiful, mouth watering display....

Wow, you capture everything so well! I love Chicago, seeing your photographs, make me want to go back there again to visit.
Cheers,
elra

Dawn said...

oh manggy, those photos of the pastries are simply stunning. I have heard so many things about vaninile.
that deep dish pizza....no words just yet. lol

Pam said...

It's great to see Chicago through your eyes - the deep dish pizza looked great and so did the pastries. I don't think I could try frog legs - but the salad looked good. I am sorry you didn't feel good about your interview - hopefully the next one will go better.

dp said...

I've yet to visit Chicago, but your pictures have given me a little taste. I'd like to take a short trip there this summer. We'll see if that is possible.

Helene said...

Love to read about Chicago. And thanks for the pics. That must had been an awesome trip.

gkbloodsugar said...

You're a more tolerant man than I, Mark. If that waitress screamed at me like that, I'd have walked away just to make a point.

I always imagined Chicago to be like the Home Alone films for some reason...

syrie said...

I've never been to Chicago, looks lovely, as does the food. Not sure about the pizza though. Good choice for opting for vegetarian! I hope you get to Australia some time Mark. I'd love to be your host!

Marc @ NoRecipes said...

Chicago is such a good eating city. Too bad it gets so cold there! I didn't get a chance (or I subconsciously avoided) the "pizza" there, but the one you got looks pretty good.

bee said...

i absolutely love chicago. it has improved dramatically over the past decade or so. i love visiting in september - over the labor day weekend. that's when they have the jazz festival at millennium park.

Heather said...

I love, love the photo of the pastels. One of my favorite media, and a gorgeous photo. I could eat those colors.

The dessert case at Vanille looks remarkably similar to our Pix Patisserie. Come to Portland sometime and let me show you.

RecipeGirl said...

Well, now I understand the weight gain :) Looks like you had a great time! I'm glad you're managing some fun in between all of these interviews. Hope the interview went well. I'm headed to Chicago in just a couple of weeks for a long weekend w/ hubby. Hope I can manage to eat well without gaining poundage!

Y said...

Great photos, especially the pastels. I want to visit Chicago! (yup, Alinea et al)

Funny how you excavated the first dessert from the bottom, leaving the top portion intact. I think I've dissected desserts in a similar way before.

LyB said...

You are so making want to travel! Your photos are all so great, especially that oil pastels one, just beautiful. It's nice to see you had time to enjoy yourself. :)

Jeanne said...

Hey - I'm so glad you enjoyed CHicago! I absolutely fell in love with the place when I was there last year. I didn't do much in the way of culinary exploration - I was too obsessed with The Bean and the architecture ;-) I did have a GOld Coast hot dog though and I have to say they were delicious. And I also went to Giordano's for deep dish pizza! Like you, I reckoned it was something I had to tray rather than realyl wanting to try it, but I was pleasantly surprised. It was a bit like eggplant parmesan with no eggplant. And a crust. So nothing like eggplant Parmesan. Ummm, like a very cheesy quiche then? Either way, I surprised myself by enjoying it, although I don't think I'd seek it out again. You've motivated me to post about my Chicago trip now!

Allen of EOL said...

Oh how I miss a good Chicago pizza -- thick and delicious. I'm a pizza whore and enjoy pizza in any form ... even those frozen ones :-)

You're not up to the part where you visit CA yet? Write faster!

Mrs Ergül said...

Gorgeous photos there! frog leg?! I like it in congee! haha but I have never had it with anything else! Those look like fine patisserie there! 2 desserts?! Good times eh!

Paula said...

Oh, I loved this post! Boy oh boy, you sure had some wonderful meals! I enjoy Chicago, and tend to be very touristy when I'm there. The suburbs have some lovely, lovely neighborhoods with lost of character. Chicago in the summertime is a joy, too, if you don't mind the humidity (I don't mind), and next time you go, I hope you get a chance to sample some of the simpler neighborhood fare such as Chicago Roast Beef sandwiches (heaven on a bun)and that old standby ... a Chicago Hot Dog! :-) Last time I was there (summer before last), we did the museums & aquarium thing and just walked around town and the lake front. Since we had kids in tow, we ate at ... the Rainforest Cafe! Ha! Ah, my kind of town, Chicago is! :-) Oh, how funny that the art supply store didn't allow photos!

Cakebrain said...

I've never visited Chicago before but have always wanted to. I'm so glad you visited and posted about Vanille Patisserie. It looks amazing!

Gfron1 said...

You may remember that I said Vanille would be my dream stage. I think they have perfection perfected. They may not be as out there as others, but you would be hard pressed to find a better pastry. Chicago is my favorite city to visit btw.

Deeba @Passionate About Baking said...

Just the sort of jazz I love Manggy, & you've brought it to life so beautifully!

Mandy said...

MARK!!!!! I couldn't believe you come without telling me! I am here in Chicago the whole time! We could have met up and I could have passed you some good stuff I made in school! If you ever come again, let me know, ok? I would love to meet up!btw, Vanille is run by one of my chef instructors. He is absolutely genius. I love his pastries.

Tim said...

I love the subway photo. The way the top fades into black, it looks almost artificial like it's built on a set.

Sylvia said...

What a great welcome photo, the subway shot is stunning!!!
And...what a wonderful places,the first pastry shop drives e crazy. I want one of those :)
And the deep dish pizza,I have never had some before,looks fabulous.
Thanks for share these wonderful places in Chicago

Maria said...

I grew up in IL and I love Chicago, such a great city. Glad you got to go! Love your photos!

Jude said...

Great post about my hood! The photos at Vanille makes me want to go there right now. I'm always amazed every time I visit that shop.

alexandra said...

Oh my! So much deliciousness. I still have never visited Chicago and have had a long-time desire to actually move there. Not quite sure why. Looks like it was a fabulous trip. That pizza looks heavenly.

fabian said...

Yey Manggy! I'm quite impressed with your photos, and also slightly jealous you're in Chicago. I visited as a wee babe and I want to return. :)

I found it so funny that you were gonna get thrown out at Blick! Ha ha ha. How'd you manage shots at such nice places? I'd feel so self-conscious.

-Fabian

Lori Lynn said...

Really enjoyed your post. I just returned from Chicago. Had a most fabulous dinner at L20 (I posted last week). And a fun time for lunch at Kuma's Corner, I had the Lynyrd Skynyrd burger!

Such a great restaurant town, no? And everyone is so gregarious.
LL

PheMom said...

So fun! I haven't been yet either, but one of these days. Hubs went last summer and is going again this summer but will be spending the entire time skydiving and won't see any other sights I'm sure. Thanks for the tour! I love that you were educating shoppers on the chocolate!

Big Boys Oven said...

awesome! AWESOME! as always!
I love thos photos, so well captured and those desserts, just like you know what i love and adore to see.... ;)

MeetaK said...

i've never been to chicago - but i can't concentrate on that when you are tempting me with those cookies - mark you are bad to the bone ;-)

Manggy said...

Ginny: I had a feeling sweetie :) Well well you haven't told me you've actually visited Vanille, so no dice! AGREED! I hope I can go to Chicago again soon :(

Dr. Em: Hahaha, it's my own fault. I think I like taking the risk, and many patisserie owners, especially if you're the only on inside, don't mind. They do make their food to look good.

Megamom: Oh gosh, you're quite something to be able to call it your second home :) I think eating out can be relegated to once a week, the rest is tinned sardines, hehehe :)

Bridget: I wonder if either of us would ever make one? ;) Of course I'll order 2 pastries! Everything for the love of dessert, even the risk of early onset Type 2 Diabetes O_o I really have to become even more controlled when sad-- you never know when it can spiral out of control!

Elyse: Well now, Vanille *is* one of the best in the country! Glad you liked the tour!

Elra: Oh, I'm blushing. Moi? And my inexpensive camera? Lol.

Dawn: Thank you! You know, the pizza wasn't bad at all! Just... get other things and share. It's a bit much ;)

Pam: Noooo! Never say never ;) Well, I'm sure plenty of people have done just fine living a life without frogs, lol :)

Darlene: You just gotta! It's not Vegas, but it's pretty much on the forefront of food in the US :)

Helene: You're very welcome! I hope you go soon!

Graeme: Noooo! I endure humiliation for good food ;) Besides, there were nice people inside, more than made up for the beeyotch.

Syrie: I would LOVE to go to Australia! Lemme pack my bags ;)

Marc: I endure cold just for good food! (Anyone sense a pattern?) It's one of those things that you gotta do, even if it may kill you. Like skydiving.

Bee: Yeah, the cold months really don't do it for those nice festivals :( Maybe there's be better opportunities for me in the future :)

Heather: I would LOVE to come to Portland, especially with the promise of 1) a patisserie like Vanille, 2) hanging out with Heather! ;)

Manggy said...

Lori: Har har ;) Well, it's all back to normal now, for what it's worth! I hope you had a fantastic time!

Yuie: Uh... yeah!!! As a pro, you absolutely have to! ;) I excavated it from the bottom because that white choc is thick and would flatten it.

Lynne: Yeah, I just don't share all the hassles of packing and flying, lol ;) Thanks!!! Really surprised how well it turned out, the pic :)

Jeanne: Oh nooooo! You have to come back now. There's just no excuse as a foodie, is there? ;) Yeah, I wouldn't seek out another DDP. Maybe if Bourdain said it was the best ever blah blah blah.

Allen: Gee, I think you added an extra word there-- "pizza" ;) Kidding! Hugs! :)

Pei Lin: Oh, I've heard of that congee-- but I might not be trying frog for a while :) Good times indeed!

Paula: Uh..........
.....

.....I don't mind the humidity. Not even a little bit ;) Ha ha ha ha ha! Thanks for the tips! I think I might be arrested for putting ketchup on a hotdog though...

Linda: I hope you get a chance really soon. It's one of those places in the US you really gotta visit :) (well, have a reason, though :)

Rob: It was mainly because of your rec that I went, Rob. I knew you wouldn't steer me wrong :)

Deeba: Thanks so much!

Mandy: Really really sorry! It was just such a whirlwind. I already commented on your blog, but next time, wherever you are, I'll make sure to contact you! :(

Tim: Thanks, Tim! I'm really drawn to underground pictures for some reason. I think I like challenging this humble camera of mine :)

Sylvia: Thank you! Oh, what kind of patisseries are in Buenos Aires, I wonder? I'd love to go sometime!

Maria: Thanks so much! I hope I did it justice :)

Jude: Next time, I'll be sure to contact you beforehand to hassle you :)

Ali: I can give you a ton of reasons ;) Thanks!

Fabian: You'll have plenty of opportunities in the future, I'm nearly certain :) Thanks for the compliment on the photos :) I do get self-conscious, but the price to pay for not taking a pic is... not having a pic. I couldn't not at least try.

Lori Lynn: What's in a LS Burger? A free bird? HA HA HA! Bad joke. Terrible, terrible joke. Yes! It's such a food-lover's dream.

Holly: I hope "one of those days" is soon for you! You gotta take a break from skydiving for sights :( At least the food!

Sunny: Thank you! I hope you got inspired to make even awesomer desserts :)

Meeta: Oh, you will find even better things than the cookies, believe it or not, lol :)