Mango Parfait with Orange Anise Jelly
I transferred from another elementary/primary school to high school. As a result, many of my classmates knew each other from before, and my classmates had friends in other sections. In the Philippine school system before college, sections of 40-50 students are stationary in the room, it's the teachers that moved around, so I never really got to meet anyone outside my 49 classmates in 4 years. Anyway, there was this boy from another section about a year older than me who was a paraplegic (? functionally, if not totally) and therefore always walked with crutches all over the campus. I knew his name but I didn't know anything else about him.
One day when the halls were pretty deserted, I was on my way out of the library when I spotted him making his way up the stairs. I'm not sure how my recollections have been colored (I was 14 at the time), but he was really struggling-- as he usually does. He climbs the stairs every day. So many thoughts ran through my head: he climbs the stairs every day. He never needs any assistance. He might get offended if a complete stranger offered him assistance now. I don't know why, but the thought that won that day was, stupidly, "Let me just run up the stairs as fast as I can and appear to be in a hurry so I can pretend that I'm too busy to notice him."
So that's what I did. And as soon as I was a meter away from the landing, I heard a trembling, almost angry remark: "Thanks."
Thanks. You cold, uncaring person. Thanks for not at least offering a hand to help me. Thanks for trying to pretend I don't exist. It haunts me to this day. Thanks.
Why was I so afraid of being humiliated? Do people really admonish others who try to come to their aid even if they don't need it? Is it possible to be hated because you thought they needed help? Maybe, but I don't want to think about those things anymore. I couldn't live with myself again if I knew that I could have helped someone but pretended not to notice them just to spare my own "feelings." I may not have been able to help him that day, but his sarcasm and his anger helped me. From that day, I don't ignore people who may need my help, whether they ask for it or not, whether they appreciate it or not. To hear no thanks is better than to hear it again from someone I've hurt.
Anyway. This dessert comes from the Michelin-starred Maze restaurant of Gordon Ramsay and Jason Atherton. When the sun is being oppressive, just pop out one of these domes of fresh, custardy goodness and it'll hit the spot. I tried to be clever and adopt Johnny Iuzzini's fluid gel technique for the orange jelly but it didn't look so pretty, so I'm just going to include the original recipe for the jelly here. The original presentation of the parfait is as a 1-cm thick 8-cm diameter disc sandwiched between 2 thin discs of mango, and served with mango sorbet and the jelly. However, I didn't have enough mangoes to make a sorbet, so I just served it as is, with a mango "carpaccio."
Mango Parfait with Orange Anise Jelly adapted from Gordon Ramsay's Maze
Mango Parfait
For the molds, you can use six 8-cm (3-inch) metal cutters, a silicone demisphere form, or a muffin tin. If using the cutters or the tin, line with cling film.
Peel the mangoes. Cut the flesh parallel to the stone in thin slices (see the picture-- I didn't peel it yet as our mangoes are too soft and I needed a good handle on them; I just cut the skin away from the slices). From the bigger slices, cut out twelve 8-cm (3-inch) circles using a metal cutter, or as large as you can manage. Set them aside chilled and wrapped with cling film.
Remove any trace of skin from the rest of the mango slices and the scraps, if any, and puree them. Push the puree through a fine sieve, discarding any fibrous pieces. Measure out 250g (about a cup minus 2 tablespoons) and set aside.
In a heatproof bowl set over barely simmering water, whisk together the egg yolks and sugar using a handheld mixer until it triples in volume and is thick and pale (ribbons falling from the beaters will leave a ribbon that slowly sinks). If you only have a stand mixer, just follow the recipe here, using 3 egg yolks, 90g (scant 1 cup) sugar, and 60mL (1/4 cup) water.
In a cold mixing bowl, whip the cream until it holds soft peaks. Fold the mango puree into the egg yolk mixture, then fold in the whipped cream. Divide between the molds, cover with cling film and freeze until firm.
Orange and Star Anise Jelly
Sprinkle the gelatin (or soak if using leaves) in cold water. Meanwhile, heat the orange juice and star anise in a nonreactive saucepan until barely simmering. If using powdered gelatin, heat over barley simmering water until it is dissolved (or in a microwavable bowl on LOW power for a few seconds. If using leaf gelatin, squeeze out the excess water. Remove the juice from the heat and add the gelatin, stirring to dissolve. Pass through a fine sieve, let cool, and chill until set.
Orange Powder
Preheat the oven to 100°C (212°F). Using a vegetable peeler, pare the zest from the oranges and cut away any white pith that comes with it. Drop in a pan of boiling water for a few seconds, then plunge it in iced water. Repeat the boil/ice water cycle 2 more times, then pat dry with towels. Spread the zest on a sheet pan and dry for 30-40 minutes or until brittle. Process to a fine powder in a food processor or spice grinder.
To assemble: if using the metal cutters as molds, remove the parfaits from the plastic wrap and cutter, and place on top of a mango disc, then top with another mango disc. Spoon orange jelly (and mango sorbet, if available) on top. Sprinkle with the orange powder.
39 comments:
What a fantastic dessert. Love the presentation. We have all done stupid things, especially in our younger days. It's good to reflect back though and think about what you would do now. It's amazing how we change.
Thank you for sharing what is, at the very least, an uncomfortable memory for you. I appreciate it because it will remind me that no amount of embarrassment to me is worse than passing by someone in need. The personal failure I'm still working on is to speak up when I see injustice or unfairness, but too often, I remain silent for fear of being smacked down.
You are as skillful with lovely desserts like this parfait as you are with meaningful words!
Your stories always give me something to think about. If I was in the same situation as you when I was 14, would I have done differently? I don't know.
Love the mango carpaccio idea, by the way. I rarely make the kind of exquisite desserts you seem to whip up so effortlessly, but mango carpaccio? That I think I can and will do.
Good lesson Mark! Good people learn from their mistake. You are certainly a good person.
Mango parfait sounds tempting and delicious. Perfect for summer dessert!
Stay well,
elra
You're a vivid storyteller and I appreciate your openess.
The dessert would be comfort food...I may just add a wafer or cookie as a garnish but otherwise...an elegant dessert.
Stupid things? You don't say? Me, I won't even try to claim I still don't do stupid stuff almost on a daily basis. I think the entire experience of life is a growing process and as soon as we start thinking there isn't more to learn is when we actually get stupid.
That definitely isn't you! The fact that years later, the memory of that other boy and the young boy you were still haunts you. I don't know too many teenage boys who would have even (1) noticed him, (2) struggled with wanting to do the right thing, but not knowing what it was. For that matter, I'm not sure there are many men who would still remember and regret.
You are quite the guy Mark and I'm proud to know you. This may embarrass you, but honestly, I hope my boys can grow up to be like this. You may not have known what to do that day, but you took the experience to heart.
I saw this on Tastespotting too and thought it looked "cover worthy"!
Wow. Yeah, there were definitely times when I didn't *physically* need help, but could have used a friendly face; but that's what happens when we're at that age - people hurt others unintentionally. And that's the kicker, the important part - you didn't mean to do it. We get so wrapped up in ourselves, and that's just going to happen at that age. What matters is that afterwards, you realized your mistake, and modeled your life to keep it from happening again. What more can anyone ask?
This sounds so nice and summery! I would love to serve something like this, I think the flavors sound unexpected (well, the anise, not the orange and mango) but who can argue with light, citrus flavors during the summertime?
Heart wrenching tale Mark. You have a way with words & expression. We've all suffered with conflicting choices sometime or the other in life. I like the way you put it in words; I never could.
This dessert is elegant beyond words. Beautiful presentation & pictures!
Ah youth...it's all about "me me me". I remember those days of teenaged self-involvement. Those uncomfortable memories shape us and should not be forgotten. It's what makes us better people and gives us character. So good of you to be able to reflect so openly about the event now with us. Perhaps this is one of the transformative events that led you to go into medicine? Nevertheless, if you offered him a mango parfait today, perhaps it would make it all better.
I'm glad you're talking about this because I never know what to do when I meet a person in wheelchair or handicapped. I always feel to help and never know what to expect from them. I tried to help some and they did not seem glad that I helped. So now what to do? This could be a good debate. You learned a lesson that day. Don't feel bad, we all could go back and change things but this is why you are a better person now Mark.
Oh how I miss Philippine mangoes.
Thanks for sharing the story. I can recall some instances in my life when I had felt awkward about offering to help. You've got me thinking though: I'm thinking offering to help should not really be about us (the helper). If we've been rebuffed by the person, then why do we need to take it personally? It's not about us. Shifting the focus might make it a tad easier to make the offer?
Mark, I Love your posts. Always feel I can relate somehow, although I don't really want to detail how exactly, in this comment. Thanks for sharing. The parfait looks lovely too.
That was so vivid, I could picture the scene and feel what you felt- You're a good soul Mark.
This dessert looks interesting, love the use of fresh mango :)
I think we all feel like that at some point. You don't want to treat anyone differently, make them feel small or needy, but as you say, better hear a "no thanks" than feel bad later, I guess. Always love your stories, Mark. :)
Me too have done this several times. I very much would guide a blind person who is crossing the road but before I get the guts to near him someone woould have helped him. I many times felt reluctant to do such help. U have kindled so many thoughts MArk! And what an exotic dessert is this ? Still I am not getting the coourage to put the sweet mangoes in to dish rather than eating on its own ;)
Awkward. :\
You're making up for it now, so it's ok.
Another thought provoking post. Some of our biggest life lessons are learned from this sort of situation. That one mistake made you a better person for life.
What a beautiful and tasty dessert. It looks so refreshing and delicious.
hahahaahh this is so funny, :) you got my favourite ingredient mango! awesome, fruity, juicy one there! :)
14 isn't a bad age to learn that lesson; some people never learn it. And we could all use a reminder sometimes, so thanks for sharing the story.
Your photo of this is, as usual, flawless.
Well, I'm going to say thank you for flagging up the recipe. And I mean it.
Life's lessons can be tough, can't they?
Have I told you already about my weakness for mangoes? They are absolutely my favorite fruit. I'm not so wild about anise though, but maybe I'll make this and just skip that part, haha ;).
very thought provoking memory of a situation many of will come across sometime or other - it is always better to be remembered for something you did as oppose to something you didn't, very true words indeed. Mangoes have grown on me as I get older and this looks delicious, would have been lovely in the mini heatwave that hit scotland the other week.
First off, I love the first photo so much. :)
And yes for having the courage to get out and help someone. I am in a similar situation (but with the problem of an adult!). I am still caught in the middle and have no idea what to do next though.
Oh gosh, it's sort of heartbreaking to read this. I've so been here. But you have to remember, your intentions started from a good place. And you live and learn. You'll never make that mistake again. It's hard gauging people's pride vs. needs. It's OK Mark!
This Mango Parfait looks so refreshing! It is a hot day here in SoCal, too.
This dessert make me miss even more mangoes from Philippines..thanks for sharing this story and this is one perfect dessert this summer i'll definitely try yum!!
I don't think you need to feel too bad about what happened that long back.
There's something about being a teenager that tends to make one think of oneself a lot more at that age.
As for that parfait, I can see the mango madness is catching!;)
Maybe you didn't achieve the effect you wanted, but it still looks mighty good to me.
If it's any consolation, I would have done exactly the same thing. I wouldn't want to be helped if it was me, but that's just my ego talking.
aw...yes, I've been there...so difficult to figure out what to say/do... love this mango parfait! delicious! :)
Your desserts and plating are inspiring as always! The lucky people you feed!
Thanks for sharing that awkward moment which I don't think many would even admit to - although I'm sure all of us have had similar experiences. What's important is that you have taken it to heart and learned from it. This is definitely a reminder for me too!
Having spent many years in a neighbourhood where many blind reside (thanks to a school for the blind nearby), the same thought has always crossed my mind..i.e. will that person appreciate the help offered to him, or will he be offended that someone is trying to make him feel just a little less worthy. I think it's mostly because I read somewhere about equal treatment, etc. So like you, I used to behave like they didn't need my help. You've said something quite important, that is perhaps we spend too much time worrying what they'll think of us when we offer them help. To hear no thanks isn't so terrible, after all. And maybe we may end up hurting someone's ego, but there'll be many others who we will be able to help.
Wait.. how can you run out of mango in the Philippines, marc? Don't you just have to reach your hand out your window to pick one? :) Maybe i just live in a fantasy world then. hehe. That's a beautiful dessert. I didn't know that cookbook existed. Is it good?
Beautiful story also. What a lesson! Someday i'll disguise and drop dead in front of you just to test your reaction. :)
Maria: Thanks :) I hope I'm still young enough to be able to say in a decade, you know, I was pretty wise for someone so young :)
Noodle: Agreed. Embarrassment is so unnecessary, really, but I hope people will just stop humiliating those who try to help. Pride is just another one of those things.
Leela: I can't wait to see what you do with the mango carpaccio idea! :) I can tell you right away, it wasn't quite so effortless at least ;)
Elra: Yeah, I hope I really did learn, though. Sometimes I am really just in a hurry :/
Peter: Thanks so much. Yeah, a tuile would be a great addition. Thanks for the idea!
Holly: You know, I have no doubt that with you as a mom, your little ones will grow up to be quite the young men. I'm floored by the compliment, thank you so much. I'm still working on improving, though, each day.
Caitlin: I hope that when the time comes, someone will be there for you, and who knows, it might be me? I hope it's enough for that guy. I wish I could go back and do it differently.
Maris: Yeah, the anise and orange was really surprising to me, but that's GR for ya! :)
Deeba: I think you could if you wanted to, but I have to say, it wasn't easy writing it down, though I felt I needed to.
Linda: Haha, I certainly hope so. I dunno if it's what led me to be a doctor, but I think it's led me to be a better one.
Helene: I think it's awful that they didn't seem grateful for your help. How malicious of them to think you wanted to do anything but be there for them. I hope you never stop helping, the world needs more people like you.
JS: Halika na kumain tayo! Yes, that is exactly what I was trying to say. Thanks so much.
Yuie: It's okay, I understand :) I'm glad I was able to make you think about it.
Mia: Oh, thank you, but I like to think I'm still getting there :)
Lynne: Yep, absolutely right. I just hope they do not say no thanks with scorn.
Nirmala: Hahaha! Maybe one day, when you have an overload of mangoes ;)
Graeme: I certainly hope so!
Pam: I certainly hope I don't make that mistake again. It's still a struggle sometimes.
Sunny: It is my favorite ingredient too, thanks! :)
Bridget: You know, now that you put it that way, I feel a lot better :) But I still feel bad for unhelped person back then.
Helen: Oh, you, I'm still jealous of your restaurant experiences!
Sara: I don't know that you love mangoes too! (But seriously, who wouldn't?) I understand about the anise though ;)
Angela: I'm glad mangoes have grown on you, though I understand that in the UK you get very poor mangoes, unfortunately :( I hope you can find good ones!
Anh: I hope you are able to make the right decision! :)
Alexandra: Yeah, but I still ended up hurting someone :( Thanks for the reassurance, though :)
Dhanggit: That is my intent, muahahahaha! ;)
Aparna: Yeah, but somehow even then I feel so guilty, especially since the guy called me out on it. I'm glad he did.
Jude: Hmm, I hope you don't bite their heads off if they offer a helping hand! O_o
Ginny: Thank you! I hope it's not as difficult as it used to be, though.
Joey: Thank you, that's so sweet of you to say. I guess I just have that knack for sharing the most vulnerable memories :/
KB: Wrote you already.
Lemongrass: I certainly hope he doesn't feel less worthy just for being helped! We all need to be helped in different ways. It's nothing to be ashamed of.
Stephane: Oh, shut up :) It's not *that* cheap, and I was working on excess! You're too funny. I wish I did have a mango tree! The cookbook is BEAUTIFUL but it needs more testing from me. Somehow I still haven't gotten to the savories! I am pretty sure I would help you, even with a disguise ;)
Well Mark, I have to chuckle to myself that so many things linger in your mind - you have the memory of an elepahnt, to be sure. Most people are not so self-reflective, which is probably one of the reasons I love you so. I also believe that 1) being 14 is your opportunity to be an idiot and 2) being male means you will always have the dilemma of wondering if your offer of help could be taken the wrong way. Jeremy worries about the latter often (i.e. offering to help a woman who has fallen in the street). It is these experiences that shape us and make us who we are today. Perhaps the one incident that made you feel guilty, made you feel bad (at no real cost of his safety) has helped turn you into the caring person you are today. Life's lessons. It's good to grow. xxoo P.S. dang, I am jealous of your desserties with mangoes.
sorry - e.g., not i.e. :)
That's a stunning photo! It's amazing how one word can mean so much and possibly change your personality in such a tremendous way. I've often refrained from giving help to someone for fear of offending them, but I like that you just go ahead and offer now. I will too. You are a great teacher.
What a powerful story. Thanks for sharing it with us. It's really food for thought... I can understand why that "thanks" never left your mind, it was a harsh consequence to your actions. But you were only 14... I don't think we think clearly at that time. The comforting thing to know is that now you recognize what was right and that you've become the time of person who cares enough about people to, not only remember this story, but share it, to impart kindness onto others.
That orange-anise jelly sounds amazing!!!
You are a such wonderful person, just read your post to know it.
Love the dessert and the photo. great post Mark
just love the color, so orangy and so appealing and yet so simple, just amazing how create one can be! thanks for sharing!
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